Friday, July 10, 2015

Halifax, Nova Scotia 6/29/15 - 7/6/15

We arrived in Nova Scotia on June 29, 2015.  Our first home where we camped was right along the shores of Porters Lake.  Porters Lake had many Osprey that would fly over and other birds as well. Being along the water was relaxing and the Lake in the afternoon sun would sparkle in a magical way.

The Halifax Public Gardens were established in 1867.  The gardens encompass 16 acres and were beautiful to walk through.  The flowers in this blog were all taken at the Public Gardens.

Just up the street from the gardens is the Natural History Museum.  We really enjoyed this museum. There were some live animals, including Gus (see below), a good presentation on the Mi'kmaq Indians and an entire room dedicated to a touring exhibit entitled 'The Lions Mane-Science in the Serengeti.  This was very interesting as they walked us through the extensive studies that have been done in regard to the purpose of the Lion's Mane.  It was found that female lions preferred the darker, fuller manes on their male lions and the males preferred to join other males with lighter colored manes.  It is thought that this is how the male lions could maintain dominance among other males peers, seeking to hang with those less desirable.  Also at the museum is one of the best bee displays we have seen.  They had a wall dedicated to a huge bee honey comb, where you could see the entire operation on both sides through Plexiglas.  The honeycomb was attached to a Plexiglas tube that enable the bees to travel to the open outdoors to get their pollen.

The Halifax Armory, was completed in 1899.  While it is currently undergoing renovation it is worth mentioning that this medieval castle like structure  was one of the most advanced structures of the day.  It was pioneering in it's use of Fink Trusses to create a large interior space with no columns or walls.  After the Halifax Explosion the Armory provided shelter for many that lost their homes.

The fortification of the Halifax Hill was first created in 1749.  Its purpose was to defend the Protestant settlers against the French, Acadians, and the Mi'kmaq.  The current star-shaped fortress was finished in 1856 and is the forth Citadel to sit on this location.  Although the fort was never attacked, fortifications to the Citadel continued throughout the first World War.   It's last military use was as a temporary barracks during the Second World War.    The Citadel is surrounded by what was called the trench.  In the trench were 2 sets of approximately 20 foot walls.  If an attacker made it over the first 20 foot wall while being shot at, he would be presented with yet another 20 foot wall with more shots continuing to come his way.  

While at the fort we learned about the signal masts.  There was both a commercial and a military signal mast.  Colored Flags would be flown from the masts, to signal other forts or harbors.  To maintain security, the code books associated with these colored flags would change often.

While at the Citadel we witnessed the rifle shooting and also the cannon firing.  It is said that the cannon has never missed a day firing at noon, used as a time keeping device for those in Halifax. When we visited the Providence house we were told at the normal noon cannon firing, when President Clinton was visiting during the G-7 Summit, the secret service was unaware of this custom and quickly whisked the President away.

St. Mary's Basilica was consecrated in 1899 and was made into a Basilica in 1950.  While not as impressive, we thought as other Basilica's we have visited, we were still glad that we stopped in.


The Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 is located within the actual Ocean liner terminal  that accepted immigrates from 1921-1971.  The tour took us through the immigration process in the actual rooms where families were processed.  Immigrates would go immediately from the ship into the processing area.  Everyone would need to first clear medical.   Those that did not would go to a detention housing area until they were well enough to continue on.  Next a Civil exam was required which involved verifying employment and acceptable political views (not communist).  Next people would need to clear customs.  The most common things confiscated at customs was sausage.  From the terminal, once cleared, people were loaded onto trains that were designed to take the immigrates long distances to their final destinations.  These trains had a stove for cooking and bunks for young people to sleep on.  Sitting on one of these actual trains was all part of the museum experience.

At the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic we became aware of two important Halifax stories.  First that Halifax, Nova Scotia was somewhat of a processing center for those lost in the Sinking of the Titanic, and second, we learned of the huge Halifax explosion that happened in 1917.  

The Halifax based cable steamer Mackay-Bennett set sail from Halifax with a minister, ice, coffins and body bags three days after the Titanic went down.  The crew was able to recover 306 bodies from the Titanic, 116 of which had to be buried at sea.  The remaining bodies were unloaded at the Halifax waterfront where they were taken by horse-drawn carriage to the temporary morgue set up in the Mayflower Curling Rink.  Only 59 of these bodies were shipped out by train to family members with the rest having religious services provided by the Halifax community in their churches and burials provided in three Halifax cemeteries.    Titanic Recovery

Halifax was devastated on December 6, 1917 when two ships collided in the city's harbor.   One of the ships was a munitions ship, loaded with explosives headed to supply the World War I Battlefields.  The collusion resulted in the largest explosion prior to the development of nuclear weapons.  The entire north end of Halifax was completely taken out by the blast and subsequent tsunami that resulted.    Nearly 2,000 people died, 9,000 were injured and over   25,000 were left with no place to live.    Halifax Explosion 

The Acadian House Museum is a small house, built in the 1850's, that was once occupied by an Acadian Family, returning after the Great Expulsion.  A common story we have heard while traveling the Maritimes is about the Acadian Expulsion.  

A bit of local history we mention, for those that do not know.  In 1605, Samuel Champlain recruited coastal French inhabitants as indentured servants to the New World.  They were required to serve for five years to repay their transportation.  The area established by Champlain was known as Acadia, it was one of the first colonies in North America and consisted of what is today New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and part of Maine.

In 1713 the War of Spanish Succession ended, leaving Nova Scotia  under British rule and Cape Breton and Prince Edward Island under French rule.  In 1719 work began on Fortress Louisbourg, to protect the French port off Louisbourg.  

In 1730, the majority of Acadians under British rule were required to sign an oath of allegiance to the British Crown but most refuse to fight in any wars against the French or Indians.  In 1745, Louisbourg falls to the British.  At the beginning off the French and Indian War in 1754, Britain demands that all Acadians not only take the oath of allegiance to the British Crown, but that they also take up the fight against the French.  Most of the Acadians refused.  In 1755 Britain ordered that all Acadians be expelled- well known in these parts as The Great Expulsion. Entire Acadian communities were destroyed, and Acadian houses and Barns were burned.  Acadians were captured and loaded into cargo ships.  Only half of the 15,000 Acadians would still be alive after all of this was completed.  Some managed to hide with the Mi'kmaq. Others escaped to neighboring islands.  The Great Expulsion did not end in 1755, however.  Three years later in 1758 Britain would round up those Acadians that had escaped  to Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton Island and deport these people to France as well.  After the Signing of the Treaty of Paris in 1763, Britain would slowly allow the Acadians to return to the Maritime Area. From 1765 - 1785 many Acadains rather than return to the Maritimes would travel from France to settle in Louisiana.  While Louisiana at that time was under Spanish rule, in Louisiana the Acadians were allowed to retain their French Culture.  

Back to the Acadian house we visited.  The house was simple (built after the return of those expelled), yet the docent gave us some insight into Acadian culture.  While touring the small house, our docent opened a closet door to expose what looked like a man in a ghost costume (sheet covered man with eye holes).  Our docent explained the tradition of Mi-Careme, translated as middle of Lent.  During this time people would dress up disguised from head to toe and would deliver candy to the kids who had been without during Lent.  We also learned about the Sacred heart tradition, where a sacred heart would be hidden in the construction when an Acadian house was built.  The Acadians were simple yet very religious people.  While their homes were modest, a bible would be found in each and every room.  Some of the unusual things in the home we enjoyed included the baby bottle warmer (stand placed on top of an oil lamp, where a filled baby bottled would be placed), the furnishings and the Acadian wedding dress.

In our travels close to Halifax, we stopped in the Musquodobboit Railway Museum.  It is a very small museum, yet we saw for the first time a railroad snow plow engine and a few other interesting artifacts.

Located in downtown Halifax and first opened in 1819, the Province House was an interesting visit and is also the longest serving legislative building in Canada .  The Mace is the authority for the Speaker of the House to conduct business and is placed on its holder, remaining in the care of the Sergeant-of-Arms while the Legislative Assembly is in session. What is now the Library at the Province house was once the Supreme Court and is the location where Joseph Howe was tried for libel in 1835. Though not the recommendation of the judge, Howe was acquitted and his victory is said to have established in Canada the fundamental basis for the freedom of the press.  The Trial  Howe would soon continue on to have an extensive political career in Nova Scotia.

The 35th Annual International Royal Tattoo was a real treat ffor us to attend and experience.  The show features over 2000 performers from all over the world.  Military Band and performers participated from Canada, Estonia, France, Germany. Norway, Oman, Sweden and the United States. Performances included military bands and drill teams, acrobats, Celtic dancers, and comedy too.  The show lasted 2 1/2 hours yet was fast paced, with something new to to enjoy about every 3 minutes.

Next up was the Fisherman's Life Museum.  The simple wooden house once belonged to Ervine Myers (the youngest son of James H Myers), his wife Ethelda and their 13 daughters. We learned that the custom in the area was for the youngest son to inherit  not only the house but also the responsibility off caring for their aging parents, which Ervine  Myers did.   The month of April marked the beginning of the fishing season when Ervine would leave his family until October to fish the waters located several days journey away. Winter would not bring rest for Ervine, when in the winter he would work at the lumber camp in Musquodobboit Valley. Ethelda and her daughters were responsible for maintaining the house, livestock, garden and sewing all off the family's clothing. 

Peggy's Cove was formally founded in 1811 when 6 families of German decent received land grants for a total of 800 acres.  Today, the population is around 600, with less than 50 remaining there through the cold winter months.  The crashing waves, rocky terrain and unusual landscape is unlike any other area we seen on the Island of Nova Scotia.  While few things grow in this harsh environment we found the area beautiful and the color of the cold ocean water lush. The local food and craft shops we enjoyed as well. We have decided we will return to this area for a few days before  we leave the Island of Nova Scotia.

At Peggy's cove the St. John's Anglican Church, built in 1894 contains two murals at the alter painted by local artist William E. deGarthe.  One mural represents the fisherman in a dory braving the raging seas, and the other mural shows Jesus Calming the Waters.  Note the 12 seagulls that are meant to symbolize the 12 disciples.  In the village off Peggy's Cove William deGarthe has also created a 100 foot granite sculpture.  The sculpture depicts 32 fishermen, their wives and children protected by wings of St. Elmo, the patron saint of sailors.

On September 2, 1998, Swissair Flight 111 crashed off the shores of Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia.  All on board were lost.  The Memorial Monument reads"In memory of the 229 men, women and children aboard Swissair Flight 111 who perished off these shores September 2nd, 1998.  They have joined to the sea, and the sky.  May they rest in peace."  The three notches off the monument represent the numerals 111 and their sight line point to the crash site.

Of last mention, and not for the weak of heart, while eating lunch at a sidewalk Bistro in Halifax we were unexpected spectators of none other than the Eighth Annual World Naked Bike Ride. No, our mother's did not teach us the proper etiquette for this.  Like do you wave at the riders?  It was a bit of a surprise. World Naked Bike Ride

Halifax, Nova Scotia Wildlife
 Halifax, Nova Scotia Wildlife
Halifax, Nova Scotia Wildlife
Our Campsite at Porter's Lake,
the lake would sparkle in the afternoon
Halifax Public Gardens
Halifax Public Gardens
Halifax Public Gardens
Halifax Public Gardens
Halifax Public Gardens
 
Museum  of Natural History
Halifax, Nova Scotia
 Museum  of Natural History
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Museum  of Natural History
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Museum  of Natural History
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Halifax Armory 1899
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Parade Grounds Halifax Citadel
Halifax,Nova Scotia
The Trench Halifax Citadel
Halifax,Nova Scotia
78th Highlanders Riffle Firing
Halifax Citadel
Halifax,Nova Scotia
78th Highlanders reenactment
Halifax Citadel
Halifax,Nova Scotia
Halifax Citadel
Preparing for the Firing of the Cannon
Halifax,Nova Scotia
Halifax Citadel
Clearing the Cannon Barrel
Halifax,Nova Scotia
Halifax Citadel
Moving the Cannon to firing Position
Halifax,Nova Scotia
Halifax Citadel
Lighting of the Cannon
Halifax,Nova Scotia
Halifax Citadel Barracks
Halifax,Nova Scotia
St. Mary's Basilica
Halifax, Nova Scotia
St. Mary's Basilica
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Georges Island Lighthouse 1917
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Immigration Museum at Pier 21
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Immigration Museum at Pier 21
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic 
Titanic Recovery Item
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic 
Titanic Recovery Item
Halifax, Nova Scotia

Acadian House Baby bottle warmer
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Acadian House Sacred Heart hidden in the Construction
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Acadian House Traditional Wedding Dress
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Acadian House Furnishings
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Snow Plow Engine
Musquodobboit Railway Museum
Snow Plow Engine
Musquodobboit Railway Museum
Ticket Dispenser
Musquodobboit Railway Museum
Wonder where the term Black Balling comes from?
Blackballing
Musquodobboit Railway Museum
Nova Scotia House of Assembly
Province House Nova Scotia
The Mace, used by the Speaker of the House to Call to Order
Province House- Halifax, Nova Scotia
Joseph Howe was tried in this room
It is now a library at Province House
Province House- Halifax, Nova Scotia
International Royal Tattoo
Halifax. Nova Scotia
Fisherman's Life Museum
Halifax,Nova, Scotia
1912 Family Photo with Ervine and Ethedia being the couple on the right
Fisherman's Life Museum
Halifax,Nova, Scotia

Dining Area
Fisherman's Life Museum
Halifax,Nova, Scotia
Nursery (Babies cared for by the oldest daughter)
Fisherman's Life Museum
Halifax,Nova, Scotia
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Peggy's Point Lighthouse
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Bagpiper playing at Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
St. John's Anglican Church 1894
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
 St. John's Anglican Church 1894
The ceiling is built as the framing of a Ship (upside down)
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
St. John's Anglican Church 1894
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
St. John's Anglican Church 1894 at the Altar
Fishermen braving the Raging Seas
William deGarthe
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
St. John's Anglican Church 1894 at the Altar
Jesus Calms the Seas, the 12 seagulls represent the appostles
William deGarthe
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
William deGarther Granite Fisherman's Sculpture
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
Swissair Flight 111 Memorial
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

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